Hadrian’s Wall or not -Day 4

Jess Guth1 Comment

My feet, or specifically my little toes are more painful than I ever imagined they could be. I maybe slept a couple of hours and it’s clear really that my Hadrian’s Wall walk adventure is over. We talked about what to do for the best for us both and agreed that Kath would walk on. Here she is setting off in Chollerford.

The B&B we stayed at was lovely and we got a lift down to Chesters Roman Fort this morning where Kath collected her next stamp. Then I hobbled with her to Chollerford where I’m now sitting in the cafe I was in yesterday sipping coffee. I’ll walk back to Chesters shortly, have a look around and then get the bus to Hexham.

Well Chesters was quite interesting for a short visit and is probably worth exploring more fully with functioning feet. I didn’t walk down to the bath house or round the whole site. I stuck my head in the museum- a room full of old stones basically and then I got on the bus.

I got off at Hexham bus station and walked very slowly towards the Abbey. I stopped at Boots and bought ibuprofen and then looked round the Abbey sitting a little while and lighting a candle for peace. Then I went for coffee.

The B&B had ‘strict’ check in times of between 4pm and 6pm. It said to call if you thought you’d be outside those times. I tried a few times to see how early I could get there and if Kath could get a lift from Heddon. No answer. So I decided that my feet were too sore to wander round Hexham and I was better off getting the train to Wylam where the B&B is.

Once in Wylam I called again and got through. They seemed slightly irritated even though I was careful to note that I knew it was early and I was just asking what was possible. She suggested we could check in at 3pm as they’d be back home then. Kath was walking into the village and I found a cafe for another coffee. Kath then discovered that there was a bus and jumped on that and I picked her up at the bus stop.

Her walk was mostly along the road and fairly uninspiring but I still enjoyed the photo updates

The B&B seems nice and we’ve rounded off the day with food at a local pub. In spite of trying to stay off my feet I’ve still done just over 14000 steps. Now for feet up, random tv and an early night.

Hadrian’s Wall Day 3

Jess Guth1 Comment

It didn’t go to plan. 7 miles in I couldn’t cope anymore. I’m not sure with what or why but I just couldn’t. The pain wasn’t really any worse than it had been all morning. It was there as a constant but not worse. The terrain was much more challenging but I knew it was going to be hard. I was ok for a little while and then confidence on any ascent and descent vanished- tricky when most of the route is up or down. Eventually brain and body said ‘nope, not today’. There were another 2 miles to navigate before a way off. We agreed Kath would carry on and I would head to the Sill and figure things out from there. So at 9 miles we split and I walked slowly down the road.

Anyway, I’m disappointed and cross and sad and sore and need time to process. I found some joy in the day, a lovely scenic bus ride, people who helped, a room with a bath…

We re- asses tomorrow.

Hadrian’s Wall Day 2 – Carlisle to Gilsland

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Just a very quick post because I’m tired and need to process today. We left Howard Lodge in Carlisle just after 8 am after an average breakfast but nice overall stay.

Today’s route was varied, more undulating than yesterday and actually a lovely route.

There were some muddy bits and some of the road sections were actually welcome after having spent a chunk of time thinking carefully about where to put our feet.

We had the path completely to ourselves for the first 5.5 miles and after that we met others coming in the opposite direction every couple of miles or so.

My feet are sore. The walking shoes were still soaking wet so I obviously wore the trail running shoes. They’re actually much better and fabulous in mud but they are quite tight. Those pressure points already tender got worse and I was in low level pain from early on. facilities are basically non existent so eventually we had a wild wee.

The sunshine was lovely and it was nice not to be rained on! But I started flagging quite early. We decided to push on to 10 miles before lunch. I sort of made it but I was struggling. We sat by the roadside and had some pasta we’d bought from M&S. I struggled to get going again and in Walton we thought we’d stop at the tea room for coffee. We didn’t have coffee because we couldn’t get served as the guy running it seemed more interested in chatting to locals. He seemed cross that we left with me just having had a pee but in all the time it took he hadn’t taken an order from Kath.

We saw the first bits of stone wall today. It’s quite a staggering wall and must have been tea imposing in its time.

Around 14 ish miles I lost the plot. Everything seems to hurt worse. There was a narrow muddy section that just made feet and hips throb with every step. I had a little cry. I got in my head. It definitely felt like I had taken on too much. I was cross that I didn’t feel better. After all we were just walking and not walking fast and the terrain was mostly fine and while there had been a hill or two it really wasn’t a strenuous route.

So today has been tough. Dacre House, our B&B is really nice and I am happy to just be able to rest. My feet are really tender, my little toes are blistered to hell and let’s just not talk about the chafing along the knicker line – let’s just say I screamed in the shower and Kath’s response to seeing it was ‘fucking hell that’s horrendous’. Vaseline has been liberally applied, the toe blisters popped and I’m about to do some stretches and then sleep.

Tomorrow is another long day. It has much more up in it and is described as moderate to strenuous. I don’t know how I’m going to do it. But I want to.

Hadrian’ Wall Day 1: Bowness-on-Solway to Carlisle

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We are tucked up in our Bed and Breakfast in Carlisle after a good day getting wet through walking in the rain. Our adventure started yesterday with a train journey from Keighley to Carlisle. This includes the Settle to Carlisle line which is a stunning route. From Carlisle we got a taxi out to our B&B – basically the route we’d be walking back today.

I’ll review the accommodation separately on Trip Advisor but Bowness House Farm, now Hunters Leisure complex or something like that was fine. Not luxury and with interesting decor (diamanté encrusted toilet roll holder anyone?) and average food but fine. After a little stretch of legs on the beach we ate and then settled in.

This morning the earliest we could have breakfast was 8am so that’s what we did. Then we left our bags ready to be picked up and transported on to the next B&B and off we went. We’d spoken to a guy at breakfast who had just finished the walk the other way had described our Day 1 as boring. it was anything but!

After the obligatory start selfie and stamp in our Hadrian’s Wall passports we made our way out of the village and along the road for a bit. The Solway Firth is quite spectacular really and we paused every now and again to listen to curlews and oyster catchers. We soon picked up the off road path for a bit before making our way past a Holiday park and along a lane. A little stretch along and we stopped to put our rain jackets on. And we didn’t take them off again all day.

A brief nod to Drumburgh Castle and we were on the Burgh Marshes. That’s a roughly 3 mile stretch which we walked part on the road and part up on the grassy mound. We could still hear and see curlews and lapwings. Once we crossed the cattle grid at the end of the marshes, we were heading into Burgh-by-Sands. Our taxi driver had told us that the Pub there was pretty much the only thing open for refreshments along the route and that it opened at 12. It was only 11.30 so no coffee and pee stop. It was raining quite heavily and as we continued on I got completely drenched by a car driving through a puddle. I lost my sense of humour for a few minutes and am marched on with soggy knickers.

We had been leapfrogging a woman walking on her own and she stopped at a portaloo by the village green and we decided to do the same. Feeling more comfortable we continued on with a brief stop to look at St Michael’s church. After that we walked along a few fields navigating the cows and sheep. We arrived in Beaumont with St Mary’s church sitting sort of above us on the hill and a welcome look bench round a tree inviting us to pause for a bite to eat. In addition there was a coffee trailer.

We had our packed lunch and coffee, briefly chatted to two women also walking the wall and then set off again. More fields, more cows and lots more kissing gates as we made our way alongside the river Eden into Carlisle. We walked all the way round the Sands Centre to find the entrance so we could stamp our passports. We saw the two women there again after having leapfrogged each other a couple of times. We realised we didn’t actually have to go all the way round and used a back exit to get us back on the path.

Technically the route for today was complete just before the Sands Centre but we decided to add a bit of tomorrow’s route on as we would need to walk to the B&B anyway and continuing on the path was really only marginally further. I jumped straight into the shower to get the worst of the mud off legs (I’d been wearing 3/4 length pants) and we rested a little before going for food in town. We went to Franco’s. Good pasta and pizza and the best espresso I’ve hard in a while!

So that’s what we did. About 17 miles all in. But how did I feel. My shoes aren’t quite right. They are quite hard/stiff and then they got wet. So my feet felt quite tender from quite early on. I’m considering my trail running shoes for tomorrow but they are quite tight so not sure yet. I got in my head every now and again. Early on I had a panic about whether I could do this and there were bits where I was anxious – some stone flag steps, fields full of cows, significant mud… but I’m fine. I’m tired because I’m not fit and my feet are a bit sore but it’s all good and tomorrow looks like it might be drier – which would be lovely!

Ready for GNR?

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Right, well that’s it. Last run done before the Great North run a week tomorrow. That’s not the big miles done though. The reason there won’t be any running during next week is because there will be lots of walking. Tomorrow we set off to Bowness-on-Solway to start our Hadrian’s Wall adventure. So we will be walking somewhere between 15 and 21 miles a day from Monday to Friday. I’m excited.

7 mile (ish) point on my 10 miler

Am I ready for the GNR? No, of course not. But whatever I do I never feel ready. I have done a few little ploddy runs of 45 minutes ish and then I forced myself out on the Bank Holiday Monday earlier this week to get into double figures. I did it. It wasn’t pretty but there were no tummy issues and I actually went pretty well until 7 miles with just a little hip flexor niggle which got worse as I went on making the last mile pretty painful. There were some mental battles along the way. The first 2 miles felt a bit sluggish and hard going so I got in my head a bit and nearly convinced myself I couldn’t do it. Mile 3 was ok and I settled down. Mile 4 was fabulous and fun. I saw a heron, I noticed things and I felt good. Mile 5 got a little hard and I had to give myself a good talking to in order to make sure I didn’t just turn round early. But having a landmark rather than a distance in my head for turning round helped a lot here. I had decided that I was going to the bridge in Silsden so that’s where I was going and the mile marker that came at was irrelevant (It was 6.06 miles if anyone cares).

After the turnaround point on an out and back I tend to get a lift. I am headed towards home. That’s good. That lift didn’t really happen on the 10 miler. It was a very short lived sort of ‘yay’. At just over 7 miles I stopped for a few minutes to try and stretch out hip flexors – they are hard to get at when you are out and about! Mile 8 was fine, I don’t remember it. I think I was just concentrating on putting one foot in front of the other. Mile 9 was painful and slow and I slipped in a few additional walk intervals. It was so tempting to stop and walk home at the 9 mile point. There is an obvious get off the canal and route home at that point. That would have made it almost 10 overall… close enough… maybe. From somewhere I found some willpower and kept run/walking to 10 miles. That last mile was just not nice though. Hip flexors continued to be bitchy and my calves decided they might just throw in a bit of campiness to join the party. I slowed a lot. But done.

View from the Aqueduct at Bolton Abbey Estate

Then I had to walk home. Home is uphill. And because I am an idiot I decided to walk the most direct but steepest route home. Well about 3/4 of the way up I felt very dizzy and pukey so I sat down for a minute or two before hauling my backside up the rest of the hill. A recovery drink, a bath and some food later and I felt pretty good. I was tired but not so tired that it took out the rest of the day. I pottered about in the kitchen and made an apple cake with our apples and sorted some apple jelly. I was achey for a couple of days afterwards but not so much that it stopped me going for a nice walk at Bolton Abbey on Tuesday and for a couple of runs finishing with today’s run. I am in sorting out and getting ready for adventures mode so I didn’t want to be out for long. I set off and felt good and ended up doing a really positive 2.5 miles at 13 minute mile pace. Now I realise that is slow in most people’s book. It used to be my forever pace but that was pre Covid and pre getting old. Now 13 minute miles is actually pretty speedy for me and about 2 minutes faster than I have been averaging over 3-4 miles recently. So I am very happy with that final run and ready to settle into a slightly slower walking pace for next week.